Ride to Remember: Craig Martin's Journey on the 9/11 Trail

A lifelong resident of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, Craig Martin is an experienced adventure seeker. Last summer he solo-cycled the 4,100-mile Great American Rail Trail from Washington D.C. to La Push, Washington, and wrote a book–American Solitaire: My Exploration of America and My Mind–capturing the challenges, triumphs, and reflections from that epic trip. Now, Craig has once again embarked on an adventure of a lifetime, cycling the entirety of the 9/11 National Memorial Trail at the end of this summer. Just as he did in his book, Craig has chronicled this journey, sharing his reflections that capture the physical challenges, emotional encounters, and the unbreakable spirit of unity and remembrance.

The Alliance is thrilled to share Craig's experiences on the trail through his own words. He reflects on his journey, his thoughts on the significance of the September 11th National Memorial Trail and what it means to honor the spirit of unity and remembrance. Read on to join Craig on his journey, and discover the trail through the eyes of an adventurer. 

It all starts with a thought. That thought does one of two things: it grows into something that turns into reality, or it passes as quickly as the next thought. I knew the September 11th National Memorial Trail was the former; it was just a matter of when. Now is my time.

September 11, 2001 has always been very significant for me. I’m not a veteran or a first responder, and I have no physical connection to that day. My only connection is being a proud American. A connection or not, it doesn’t matter—everyone should feel something about this tragedy that affected so many people so deeply. An attack against our country of this magnitude is something that no one should ever forget, nor the unspeakable acts committed that day.

I’ll never forget where I was when I learned what was happening. I had just graduated high school and was in bed listening to Howard Stern on the radio. I can’t think about it, and I still can’t watch any footage without getting incredibly sad. It made and left an impression on me that will last my entire life. My roughly twenty days on the trail offered plenty of reminders of the lingering effects still felt to this day.

Starting my trip was great. Living in Lancaster County, PA, the 9/11 National Memorial Trail is less than seven miles from where I live. Starting on the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail in Marietta, I made my way toward New York City. One thing I’ve realized from my past trips is that seeing the country from the slow pace of your saddle puts a whole new perspective on it. I’ve lived in PA my whole life, and I didn’t know it was as beautiful as it really is. Every day was a challenge, and every night I was physically exhausted at camp or in my hotel. It made for very long days; I’d wake up around 6:00 a.m., and my rides would often end at 6:00 p.m. or later. I planned my trip around where camping sites, which is the main reason I traveled so many miles every day. I averaged around 75 miles per day. Normally, that’s something I can handle, no problem, but those hills were a daily grind.

The trail ride itself was an incredible challenge. I initially thought that being closer to the ocean at times would mean the elevation wouldn’t be too bad. Wow, was I wrong—the hills were brutal at some points. The hardest part was that they were consecutive, one after the other, for multiple days in a row. I had to walk many times; some hills were miles long, with steep peaks before you that crest the mountain. Although with the hills came some insane downhill speeds. I try to keep it around 25 mph; I’m comfortable with that. I hit a trip high of 34 mph going down a couple of these mountains! Even when exhausted, you have to take advantage of the hills. I try to use the downhill to my advantage, whether for the next climb or for gaining extra speed coming into a flat section. 

Riding along the Delaware and Lehigh National Heritage Corridor (D&L) in Slatington, PA, I got a real-life reminder of what this trail is really about. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw an airplane. Thinking it looked out of place, I stopped for a look. At this small-town airport, I met Bill, and we started talking bikes, trips, and a little about what I was doing. After a few minutes, another man showed up. I was introduced to Corky, who had lost a brother in the NYC terrorist attack, as I later found out. 

These interactions put meaning into my journey—something real, something my thoughts and feelings can’t ever fully comprehend. Obviously, this wasn’t what I expected from simply looking at an airplane, but it was something I needed. It’s seeing a fellow American who was directly affected by those cowardly acts against our country. I only have thoughts; I don’t have to live through the daily after-effects. Having these surreal interactions makes me think a lot more about life in general. 

New York City cycling is a fun experience, and the scenery along the Hudson Greenway is amazing, but it has changed since my last time out here. The couriers on their e-bikes—wow, they’re fearless. Reaching the Ground Zero Memorial site always starts off okay, but after a little bit, I just start to feel it inside. It begins with thoughts and feelings, but then those turn into a flood of emotion. Mostly, my eyes start to water, and I just can’t help but have these strong feelings start to overwhelm me. I’ve been here before a few times; I always visit when I come to town, and my actions/feelings never change.

I went inside the museum once, a couple of years ago, and it might have been the most difficult things I’ve ever had to brave. I don’t encourage or discourage anyone from going; just be prepared for what you’ll see. For me, I understand the impact this had on many innocent people’s lives, but seeing it in person is certain to break down anyone a little inside. I bought a NYC Memorial pin and attached it to my front frame bag. I also made a donation and got a 9/11 wristband, which I wore every day as soon as I woke up. Later, I’d have a keepsake from every site attached to my bicycle: two pins and a sign.​

My next destination was the Pentagon Memorial site. Familiar territory, but once again new scenery, courtesy of my bicycle saddle. There’s a plethora of U.S. history along this segment, and I decided to detour to see Philadelphia’s part in shaping America. My destinations were Love Park, the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, and Ben Franklin’s grave. Doing this I missed one of my favorite parts of the Schuykill River Trail (SRT), the Riverbanks Boardwalk. Later in Maryland, being a huge Baltimore Orioles fan, I had to make another pit stop by Camden Yards. It was gameday, and I was there three hours early, just in time to beat the doors opening.

Navigating Washington DC is absolutely amazing. Whoever designed the network of connecting trails in DC is a genius. The interwinding trails offer safe, easy access to a great portion of our nation’s capital. The Pentagon Memorial was a great feeling of accomplishment in making it to the destination, but also one of somber reflection. It's a quiet and beautiful outdoor memorial, the shape and symbolism of the memorial are powerful. I walked around for a bit, just thinking about what I was looking at. I had some time to think, gather my thoughts, and appreciate the fact that I was able to come and be there. I paid my respects, grabbed a small flyer, and added it to my memorabilia collection.

Making my way out of the DC area, I had a relieved feeling knowing for the next couple of days that I’d have it 'easy'. Two full days of trails on the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal (C&O), and a little of the Great Allegheny Passage. I always enjoy my time out here, nice surface, wildlife, and free primitive camping. For me this is my time to take it easy and recuperate as much as possible. It’s been an incredible physical challenge thus far, and I enjoyed this segment for sure. A little climbing up canal locks, the infamous climb on the GAP to the Eastern Continental Divide, but it’s all minimal compared to the trip so far.

Exiting the GAP in Garrett, I make my way through Southwestern PA to Stoystown. A beautiful scenic ride to my last memorial site. I arrived about thirty minutes before closing time. I have been here before a few times and seen pretty much all its phases from when it opened up, until now. Everything is so beautifully laid out and well done here from the land, walkways, and bike lanes to every detail of honor and reflection to the heroes.

I took a short walk. Once again feelings start to overwhelm me. It’s a sad feeling, but in different ways, and honestly, it’s a mixture of emotions. This site to me is different in a way. The people aboard Flight 93 knew what was happening, but more importantly, knew what had to be done. The courage displayed by everyone on the plane is something I can’t put words to. It certainly offers me plenty to reflect on. I took my time at the site and just reflected on everything. After stoping into the visitor center,  I got my pin, and with my wristband and flyer, I had a piece of every location. At the end of the day, my main focus is to keep these events alive in my mind and, hopefully, make people think a little bit about them, even if just for a moment.

Checking off my final site, I started my way back home. I wanted to do the entire 9/11 National Memorial Trail, so when I arrived in Harrisburg, I decided to add on the Gettysburg Loop. Adding two more days, some good climbing, and also some more incredible rural Pennsylvania scenery. I had intentions of seeing the battlefield, however traffic was a bit intense, so I settled for the Eternal Light Peace Memorial, a few statues, and I climbed up one observation tower, which was on my route. Knowing I had a few hills still, I made my way to my final campsite, Codorus State Park Campground.

After a half day of riding, I crossed the Susquehanna River, and arrived back at the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail in Columbia, Lancaster County. My 9/11 Trail journey started here just twenty days ago, and 1,450 miles later I’m here in Marietta finishing my latest adventure. Now I just have the final seven miles to get home. 

One of my favorite parts of my bike trips is most times, I don’t know where I am, but I’m not lost. To me, that’s a true adventure and an incredibly free feeling. This is one reason I need these trails for my own mental health. When I ride on my trips, the pressures and stress from home, and life can disappear temporarily. It’s just me, my bicycle, and open adventure. Stress is only allowed if I let it in. Riding the 9/11 National Memorial Trail gives me the opportunity to not just complete another trip, but to ride for something that means so much not only to me but has also affected so many Americans’ daily lives.

I used to feel a slight guilt about feeling the way I do. I’m sad because of what happened, what so many have lost. But I didn’t lose anyone, so do I have the right to feel the way I do? To me, it’s a form of self-guilt, a character defect that needs to be addressed in my life. There is absolutely nothing wrong with caring about your fellow man, on any level. For people like me non-veteran, non-first responder, and not having lost anyone, I learned over time it’s ok to have empathy. I now feel it’s a form of healing for me. It shows me that I’m human and can have a deep care for my fellow Americans. Today I call it compassion, not self-guilt.

This is what needs to happen in my opinion, have more compassion for others. With all the division today, this trail is also a reminder of how life can change in an instant, and we all should have more love and joy in our lives, myself included. This trail above all is for the people, a great way to visit all three sites. Lots of history along the trail, and I passed so many wonderful town’s Veteran Memorials. In almost every town I’d see something to remember the ultimate sacrifice many made, so we can all live free and the way we currently do.

It’s not about the miles, distance, or elevation. It’s the journey to get there, the memories in between, the people you meet, the new friends you make. But this trail also holds a great significance. We must never forget why this trail exists, we as a country need to keep in mind that, that infamous day still affects many fellow Americans to this day.